Ibimera bivamo ibihingwa bifite ibyifuzo byinshi byo kwisiga

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Hamwe na cosmetike karemano, icyatsi, ubuzima bwiza kandi itekanye hamwe nibikomoka ku bimera bikurura abantu benshi, iterambere ryibintu bifatika biva mu mutungo w’ibimera ndetse no guteza imbere amavuta yo kwisiga meza byabaye imwe mu nsanganyamatsiko zikomeye mu iterambere ry’inganda zo kwisiga. Kongera guteza imbere umutungo w’ibimera ntabwo ari ukugarura amateka gusa, ahubwo ni ugushyigikira umuco gakondo w’Abashinwa, guhuza ibitekerezo gakondo by’ubuvuzi gakondo bw’Abashinwa, no gukoresha ikoranabuhanga ry’ibinyabuzima bigezweho kugira ngo utezimbere ubwoko bushya bw’amavuta yo kwisiga akomoka ku bimera, hagamijwe guteza imbere ubumenyi n’umutekano. kwisiga bisanzwe. Ibicuruzwa bivura imiti bitanga ibikoresho bibisi. Byongeye kandi, ibimera bivamo ibihingwa bikoreshwa cyane mubuvuzi, inyongeramusaruro, ibiryo bikora, ibinyobwa, kwisiga nizindi nzego.

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Ibikomoka ku bimera. Amavuta yo kwisiga yakozwe hamwe nibikomoka ku bimera nkibigize ingirakamaro bifite ibyiza byinshi ugereranije no kwisiga gakondo: biratsinda ibitagenda neza byo kwisiga gakondo bishingiye ku buhanga bw’imiti, bigatuma ibicuruzwa bigira umutekano; ibice bisanzwe byinjizwa byoroshye nuruhu, bigatuma ibicuruzwa bikora neza kandi ingaruka ni ngombwa; imikorere iragaragara cyane, nibindi

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Guhitamo ibimera bikwiye no kongeramo urugero rwibikomoka ku bimera byo kwisiga birashobora kugabanya ingaruka zabyo. Imikorere yingenzi yibikomoka ku bimera mu kwisiga ni: kuvomera, kurwanya-gusaza, kuvanaho frake, kurinda izuba, antiseptike, nibindi, nibikomoka ku bimera ni icyatsi kandi gifite umutekano.

MIngaruka

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Ibintu bitanga amazi mu kwisiga bikorwa cyane cyane muburyo bubiri: imwe igerwaho ningaruka yo gufunga amazi yo gukora imiyoboro ya hydrogène hagati yumusemburo wa molekile na molekile zamazi; ikindi nuko amavuta akora firime ifunze hejuru yuruhu.

Amavuta yo kwisiga yiswe amavuta yo kwisiga ni amavuta yo kwisiga arimo ibintu bitanga amazi kugirango agumane ubuhehere bwa stratum corneum kugirango agarure ubwiza nubworoherane bwuruhu. Amavuta yo kwisiga agabanijemo amoko abiri akurikije imiterere yabyo: imwe ni ugukoresha ibintu bigumana amazi bishobora guhuzwa cyane nubushuhe hejuru yuruhu kugirango bitobore stratum corneum, bita imiti itanga amazi, nka glycerine; ikindi ni ikintu kidashonga mu mazi, Hakozwe urwego rwa firime yo gusiga amavuta hejuru yuruhu, rukora nkikimenyetso cyo gukumira amazi, kuburyo corneum ya stratum igumana ubushuhe runaka, bwitwa emollients cyangwa kondereseri, nka peteroli, amavuta, n'ibishashara.

Hariho ibimera bitari bike mubihingwa bifite ingaruka zo kuvomera no gutanga amazi, nka aloe vera, ibyatsi byo mu nyanja, imyelayo, chamomile, nibindi, byose bigira ingaruka nziza.

Ingaruka zo gusaza

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Hamwe no kwiyongera kwimyaka, uruhu rutangira kwerekana imiterere yubusaza, burimo cyane cyane kugabanya kolagen, elastine, mucopolysaccharide nibindi bintu biri muruhu kurwego rutandukanye, imiyoboro yamaraso itanga imirire yuruhu atrophy, ubworoherane bwamaraso. urukuta rugabanuka, kandi epidermis y'uruhu iragenda igabanuka. Kubyimba, kugabanya ibinure byo munsi, no kugaragara kw'iminkanyari, chloasma hamwe n'imyaka.

Kugeza ubu, ubushakashatsi bwibanze ku mpamvu zitera gusaza kwabantu muri make muri make ibi bikurikira:

Imwe murimwe kwiyongera no gusaza kwa radicals yubuntu. Radicals yubusa ni atome cyangwa molekile hamwe na electron zidakorewe zakozwe na homolysis ya covalent bonds. Bafite urwego rwo hejuru rwibikorwa bya shimi kandi barwaye peroxidisation hamwe na lipide idahagije. Lipid peroxide (LPO), nibicuruzwa byayo byanyuma, malondialdehyde (MDA), irashobora kubyitwaramo nibintu byinshi mungingo ngengabuzima, bigatuma igabanuka rya biofilm, kwangirika kwa molekile ya ADN, no gupfa kwa selile cyangwa mutation.

Icya kabiri, imirasire ya UVB na UVA kumurasire yizuba irashobora gutera ifoto yuruhu. Imirasire ya Ultraviolet itera gusaza uruhu binyuze muburyo bukurikira: 1) kwangiza ADN; 2) guhuza collagen; 3) kugabanya ubudahangarwa bw'umubiri utera inzira yo kubuza igisubizo gikangurwa na antigen; 4) ibisekuruza bya radicals yubusa ikora cyane hamwe nuburyo butandukanye bwimitsi itandukanye 5. Kubuza mu buryo butaziguye imikorere yuturemangingo twa Langerhans epidermal, bitera fotoimmunosuppression no kugabanya imikorere yubudahangarwa bwuruhu. Byongeye kandi, glycosylation idafite enzymatique, indwara ya metabolike, hamwe na matrix metalloproteinase gusaza nabyo bizagira ingaruka ku gusaza kwuruhu.

Ibimera bivamo ibihingwa nkibisanzwe bya elastase byabaye ingingo yubushakashatsi bushyushye mumyaka yashize, nka Scutellaria baicalensis, Burnet, imbuto ya citrifoliya ya Morinda, Moringa, Shuihe, Forsythia, Saliviya, Angelica nibindi. Ibyavuye mu bushakashatsi byerekana ko: Igicuruzwa cya Saliviya miltiorrhiza (ESM) gishobora gushimangira imvugo ya filaggrine muri keratinocytes isanzwe y’umuntu hamwe n’uruhu rwa AmoRe, ari nacyo gishobora kuzamura ibikorwa byo gutandukanya epidermal na hydration, kandi bikagira uruhare mu kurwanya gusaza no gutanga amazi. ; Kuva mubihingwa biribwa Gukuramo anti-free radical DPPH, hanyuma ukayishyira mubikoresho byo kwisiga bikwiye, hamwe nibisubizo byiza; Polygonum cuspidatum ikuramo igira ingaruka zimwe na zimwe zo kubuza elastase, bityo kurwanya gusaza no kurwanya inkari.

Fkubara

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Itandukaniro ryamabara yuruhu rwumubiri wumuntu mubisanzwe biterwa nibirimo no gukwirakwiza epidermal melanin, umuvuduko wamaraso wa dermis, nubunini bwa stratum corneum. Umwijima w'uruhu cyangwa kwibumbira ahantu hijimye cyane cyane biterwa no kwegeranya kwa melanin nyinshi, okiside y'uruhu, kubika keratinocyte, microcirculation y'uruhu, no kwegeranya uburozi mu mubiri.

Muri iki gihe, ingaruka zo gukuraho frackle zigerwaho cyane cyane muguhindura imiterere no gukwirakwizwa kwa melanine. Imwe ni tyrosinase inhibitor. Muguhindura kuva tyrosine kugera kuri dopa na dopa kugera kuri dopaquinone, byombi biterwa na tyrosinase, igenzura mu buryo butaziguye itangizwa n’umuvuduko wa synthesis ya melanin, ikanagena niba intambwe ikurikira ishobora gukomeza.

Iyo ibintu bitandukanye bikora kuri tyrosinase kugirango byongere ibikorwa byayo, synthesis ya melanin iriyongera, kandi iyo ibikorwa bya tyrosinase bibujijwe, synthesis ya melanin iragabanuka. Ubushakashatsi bwerekanye ko arbutine ishobora guhagarika ibikorwa bya tyrosinase murwego rwo kwibandaho nta burozi bwa melanocyte, guhagarika synthesis ya dopa, bityo bikabuza gukora melanine. Abashakashatsi bakoze ubushakashatsi ku bigize imiti iri mu ngwe y’ingwe y’ingwe n'ingaruka zayo zo kwera, mu gihe basuzuma uburakari bw'uruhu.

Ibisubizo byubushakashatsi byerekana ko: mubintu 17 byitaruye (HLH-1 ~ 17), HLH-3 irashobora kubuza imiterere ya melanine, kugirango igere ku ngaruka zo kwera, kandi ibiyikuramo bifite uburakari buke ku ruhu. Ren Hongrong n'abandi. bagaragaje binyuze mubushakashatsi ko parufe ya lotus alcool igira ingaruka zikomeye zo guhagarika melanine. Nubwoko bushya bwibimera bikomoka ku bimera, birashobora kuvangwa na cream ikwiye kandi birashobora gukorwa mubuvuzi bwuruhu, kurwanya gusaza no kuvanaho frackle. Amavuta yo kwisiga akora.

Hariho kandi imiti ya melanocyte cytotoxic, nka antothelin antagonist iboneka mu bimera biva mu bimera, bishobora guhatanira guhuza endothelin na reseptor ya melanocyte membrane, bikabuza gutandukanya no gukwirakwiza melanocytes, kugirango ibuze imirasire ya Ultraviolet itera intego ya melaninine umusaruro. Binyuze mu bushakashatsi bwakagari, Frédéric Bonté n'abandi. yerekanye ko ibimera bishya bya Brassocattleya orchid bishobora kubuza neza ikwirakwizwa rya melanocytes. Kwiyongera kubintu byo kwisiga bikwiye bigira ingaruka zigaragara kumweru no kumurika. Zhang Mu n'abandi. yakuweho kandi yiga ibimera biva mu Bushinwa nka Scutellaria baicalensis, Polygonum cuspidatum na Burnet, kandi ibisubizo byerekanaga ko ibiyikuramo bishobora kubuza ikwirakwizwa ry’utugingo ku buryo butandukanye, bikabuza cyane ibikorwa bya tirozine yo mu nda, kandi bikagabanya cyane ibirimo melanine yo mu nda, kugira ngo bigerweho Ingaruka zo kwera.

kurinda izuba

Muri rusange, izuba ryinshi rikoreshwa mu kwisiga izuba ryigabanyijemo ibice bibiri: kimwe ni imashini ya UV, ikaba ari ibinyabuzima kama, nka ketone; ikindi ni UV ikingira ibikoresho, ni ukuvuga izuba ryumubiri, nka TiO2, ZnO. Ariko ubu bwoko bubiri bwizuba ryizuba birashobora gutera uburibwe bwuruhu, allergie yuruhu, hamwe nuduce twuruhu. Nyamara, ibimera byinshi bifite ingaruka nziza zo kwinjiza imirasire ya ultraviolet, kandi bigashimangira mu buryo butaziguye imikorere yizuba ryibicuruzwa bigabanya kwangirika kwimirasire iterwa nimirasire ya ultraviolet kuruhu.

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Byongeye kandi, ibikoresho byizuba byizuba mubikomoka ku bimera bifite ibyiza byo kurakara uruhu ruto, guhagarara kwifoto, umutekano no kwizerwa ugereranije nizuba gakondo ryizuba ryumubiri. Zheng Hongyan n'abandi. yahisemo ibimera bitatu bivamo ibimera, cortex, resveratrol na arbutin, kandi yiga kumutekano hamwe ningaruka zo kurinda UVB na UVA zo kwisiga izuba ryizuba ryifashishije ibigeragezo byabantu. Ibisubizo byubushakashatsi byerekana ko: bimwe mubikomoka ku bimera karemano byerekana ingaruka nziza zo kurinda UV. Icyerekezo nabandi bakoresheje tartary buckwheat flavonoide nkibikoresho fatizo kugirango bige imiterere yizuba rya flavonoide. Ubushakashatsi bwerekanye ko ikoreshwa rya flavonoide kuri emulsiyasi nyayo hamwe no gufatanya n’izuba ry’umubiri n’imiti byatanze umusingi w’amahame yo gukoresha izuba ry’ibimera mu kwisiga mu gihe kizaza.

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Igihe cyo kohereza: Nyakanga-12-2022
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